Churches and Pyramids

Churches and Pyramids Puebla, Mexico

Puebla, Mexico Mexico City to Puebla I took the ADO bus at 11:10 AM and arrived on time around 1:15PM at Mega Puebla. The bus was very comfortable. It is quite an experience taking the bus. The station is massive. “Checking-in” is like in the airport. I had to check-in my luggage in a counter, then I had to go through security screening and my ticket checked by a staff wearing suit. The driver’s also in suit. My host, Roberto, picked me up where I alighted and didn’t waste anytime getting me settled at their family home, and then quickly hitting back the road to show me around. On the way, saw this volcano with ‘cloud’ on top. Later, I found out that it’s actually smoking, sometimes spewing ashes. It’s an active volcano. Cacaxtla – Ancient Pyramid Ruins Our first stop is a pyramid. The interesting thing about this pyramid was that it was created primarily to house Quetzal birds, a feather of which is valued more than a servant’s life. Pre-hispanic. There were frescoes inside the pyramids. One of them showed the warring jaguar and serpent God-warriors. The jaguar God was predicted to come back, coincidentally at the same time when Cortes and his men showed up. The Spaniards were thus mistaken for Gods. Hence the defeat and colonisation of a sophisticated civilization. From Cacaxtla, one can see another pyramid atop a nearby hill called Xochitecatl. I didn’t have time to go up there and check it out. Just as well, I flinch at the history: the place is used more for human sacrifice. Street Food at the Tlaxcala Markets Before proceeding to our next stop, we grabbed some lunch at the local market. Every day of the week is market day in some town. The same stalls basically do their rounds. It’s a good system whereby vendors get to sell at a different town, each day of the week. Taking Roberto’s suggestion, I had tortilla de cameron and a deep purple colored drink. My lunch looked like a vegie patie in a curry, though the taste is totally unique, with rich shrimp flavor, and mixed spices. We continued to look around the street food. I bought an amaranth and mixed nuts candy for $5 (which retailed at $16 at the bus station). Tried some of the exotic drinks as well: pulque, mamuey, guanabana all of which taste fermented. Just a sip was strong enough to make my stomach get queezy.
Cholula – Churches on Pyramids They say that there is one chruch in Cholula for everyday of the year — 365 churhces for such a small town! St. Michael Shrine in Tlaxcala has a well that is believed to have healing powers. Pilgrims come to visit the shrine. Stopped by at a a convent (I think it’s called San Gabriel convent) along the way. The place has a great closer view of the smoking volcano, Popocatepetl. Also saw a cacatus plantation along the way. Santa Maria Tanantzintla is the most unique church. Inside, the ceilings were all 3D reliefs. On one corner of the arch on top of the altar is the relief sculpture of the ancient God of rain, on the other corner, the ancient God of spring. That’s indigenous beliefs integrated with Catholicism. There’s another church with a very beautiful facade that we visited. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the name. Ithas a Moorish influence, with symmetrical tile decorations like the ones i saw in Alhambra, Granada. Nuestra Senora de las Remedios church is built on top of what looks like a hill, but is actually a pyramid. The Catholics basically built churches on top of pyramids using the pyramid stones as building materials. their way of subjugating indigenous culture. The Fanciscans burnt codices of the Mayans/Aztecs which documents ancient culture, philosophy, way of life, etc. passed on from one generation to another. Systemic destruction of an ancient civilization. The place provided a perfect 360 degree view of Cholula, facing the volcanoes and Malinche as the sun sets behind them. The rays of the sun still peeking from behind the mountain, lit up the smoke coming from the volcano creating a rich 2-dimensional effect. Ended the day (or evening) going around Cholula zocalo, and had intercambio of espanyol en Tagalog with Roberto over a cup of chocolate ambro (bitter hot chocolate). This guy is impressive with his “language’ collection. He has hosted 60+ couch surfers, and been hosted almost as many times having traveled in 60 different countries. He has in-depth and extensive knowledge of Mexican and indigenous history and is learning the latter’s language, Nahuatl. I feel inspired.

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