A Weekend in Guanajuato: My Ideal Town
Day 1: July 20 Friday Evening
I arrived around 7PM. It took around 90 mins to reach Guanajuato from San Miguel de Allende. The bus station is a few miles away from the center of town. The taxi was meant to be only M$40, but the driver got lost, couldn’t find my host’s place and therefore charged me M$55! I coouldn’t bother arguing so I just paid as is. Mike, my host, was patient enough to give him instructions over the phone, and then picked me up from where the cabbie dropped me off.
Colonial house with Hosts. I feel like I hit a jackpot and found the best-kept secret in couchsurfing! First of all, my hosts were very hospitable. Second, the room is the prettiest I’ve ever seen! It’s even more beautiful than t
he colonial B&B that I stayed in San Miguel Allende. It’s just beautiful down to the minutest detail! The curios were handcrafted coming from different parts of Mexico, the colorful wooden cupboard and headboard were skillfully carved. At first I thought their house was a compound of apartments, but is actually their whole place. It’s big.
After showing me around and giving me the keys, I proceeded on my ‘walkabout town’ and checked the places along the main street of Avenue Juarez.
Plazuela de los Angeles was right at the foot of the hill from Calixto where my hosts stay. there were baskers and marriachis. From there, I proceeded to Plazuela de San Fernando which had lots of cafes and restaurants; right in the middle were people dancing, mostly senior couples, to danzon as well as rock’n roll. Passing through a calle and a church, I ended up in Plaza San Roque where there were book stalls as well as pastelerias.
Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Gunajuato. Can’t miss this imposing church! It was built in the 1600s. There’s a monument right in front, mercado de artesania right next to it, and al fresco restaurants and cafes all around.
Mercado de Hidalgo. Just passed by this place. It’s a massive colonial building. They were already closing when I got there.
Teatro Juarez. The International Film Festival just started today. The place was therefore packed! I am lucky, it seems there’s something going on, i.e. fiestas and festivals, whenever I come to town. People were screaming as actors and actresses arrived at the red carpet. The only Mexican actress I know is Thalia.
Day 2: July 21 Saturday
Universidad de Guanajuato. I passed by the Universidad, a very old Spanish looking building. Guanajuato is a university town, hence the lively arts and culture. Being the capital, it gets a lot of funding from the state government in collaboration with the academe.
Sanctuario de Guadalupe. Nothing really special, but since I’m already at the University and the map shows that the Calsada de Guadalupe is just behind, I thought of checking the place out. I anticipated a good view of the town from the top. It proved to be just a good exercise for me, because I got lost in the little alleyways, and when I finally reached the Sanctuario, it was closed. Plus, the view is obstructed by house. Getting hungry, I bought a banana along the way. A piece cost me $2. In Merida, that would have bought me a bunch!
I continued along San Diego, passed by Museo Iconografico del Quijote, and ended at the towering pink Templo de San Franciso. Next to it was Bagel Cafetin where I spent a good couple of hours or enjoying the great coffee, mouthwatering tuna bagel, free wi-fi and people watching.
I passed by Teatro Cervantes, checked Jardin la Union and Plaza Baratillo, before I proceeded to El Pipila. I took the funiculare which cost $15 one way. It was easy getting down through the stairs and windy alley, back down to calle Alonso. From the top of the hill with El Pipila’s monument, I had a great view of Guanajuato!
Day 3: July 22 Sunday
I slept in, it was 9:30AM by the time I got out of the casa. My hosts agreed to accommodate me for another date. Estoy feliz!
I found a buffet breakfast along Avenue Juarez for $60. It’s a good deal! The spread included cereals, yogurt,fruits, pancakes, hot food (vegies and meat) and complimentary coffee and orange juice.
Alhondiga de Granaditas. Built in the 1800s, this formidable structure was used as a fortress by the Spaniards, but was penetrated by El Pipila. I did not bother going in. The streeet right next to it, Pocitos, was a very interesting walk; along the way I passed by Museo de Casa del Diego Riviera. He’s one of most influential artists in Mexican culture.
I went back to my host’s place and spent the afternoon napping and reading. It’s a real treat!
Callejon del Beso is a popular spot in town, but I only discovered it by accident when I saw lots of people crowding the alleyway. It’s very similar to Sevilla, and the story about neighbors kissing each other from their balconies because they’re so close!
I was lucky enough to meet some company on the way up to El Pipila in the evening. I was told that it’s dangerous to go there in the evening alone, but I was determined to take evening photos of the whole town. Happily I did it!
My company a local musician, also brought me along to a salsa club where we danced. Couldn’t get any better than this for my last night in Guanajuato!