Today, I left Prague, joined my Busabout group, saw the church of bones of Kutna Hora, visited the pretty town of Litomysil with it’s interesting sgraffitos, and reached our destination for the day, Olomouc the Moravian part of Czech Republic.
Finding My Way Before Losing It!
I left my really pretty Alice Apartment, by 6:30 AM. Without a guidebook or map of broader Prague, checked googlemap last night to figure out my way to the pick-up point at Hostel Plus Prague which is outer part of town.
Following the directions on the Busabout website, I alighted at the indicated train station and found the indicated tram stop, only to find the tram routes changed two weeks earlier. Recalled from googlemaps, a different, but a nearer train station and made my way there. At the taxi rank, I asked a cabbie for directions. He pointed to a very wide, lonely and intimidating highway, with his booming voice matching his massive build “Walk that way, that’s Ortonovo Namesti!”
I walked 20 meters. Stopped. I looked at my watch. With only have 5 more mins before the pickup bus leaves and the potential to be stuck here in Prague, I turned on my heels. My guesstimate is the hostel should be no more than 5 mins drive away. I was happy to pay 10Euros if I had to.
“Can you take me to the Hostel Plus Prague please?”
“100 kroner.”
One, cabbie obviously knew where it was, and I don’t care if he’s overcharging. Two, f**k, if I knew it was only 100 kroners, I could have just taken the cab right from the get go! Never mind that I’m down to my last 150 Kroners! I would have paid every single kroner I had left!!!
Busabout – Getting Introduced
Two minutes was all it took to Hostel Plus. I was on time. For breakfast that is. We weren’t leaving till 8 AM.
I looked around. The whole place was teeming with excitable (or hung-over) twenty somethings. I gravitated to the only mature face in the crowd. Her name’s Cora, a Canadian. Free spirit. Single, never been married. Years older than me, but seems to have more energy than I do! Later in the day, she said she’s glad I came to her at breakfast. We ended up sharing a room together. I’m so relieved myself.
Along the way, we all had introductions. It’s Australia united on Busabout. Around thirty travelers, only handful non-Aussies: one Canadian (Cora), one American, a couple of Indians, a couple of so English. So much for being an independent traveler.
That dreaded question came “What do you do?” Split second decision between exotic dancer and writer.
“I’m a writer.”
I decided not to say what I really do, e.g. change management, just because I’m tired having to explain it. Now I realise, as a writer, I get more questions:
“What kind of writing do you do?”
“What’s your novel about?”
“Have you published already?”
Next time, I think exotic dancer would be better. How much more can people ask?!
KUTNA HORA – Church of Bones
First stop, Kutna Hora. UNESCO World Heritage listed. The small church on a cemetery houses a gazillion human bones. People in the kingdom of Bohemia and Moravia just wanted to be buried there. With too many bones, and cremation not an option back in those days, the resourceful Czechs found a solution: make chandeliers and church interior decors with human bones. Yes, it’s creepy.
Kutna-hora – temple made of human bones
LITOMYSIL – Discovering Sgraffito and Home of Smetana
Second stop, the Medieval Bohemian town of Litomysil. It is quaint and very, very quiet. Found out, it’s Czech public holiday today and tomorrow. I can forget hopes of changing my Euros to Kroner.
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- Litomosyl Map
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- Litomysil Palace
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- Litomysil Main Street
Cora and I broke away from the group. We decided the time is better spent exploring rather than sitting having lunch in a restaurant. She was all excited that Smetana was born and lived in this town. Famous composer. I’m clueless!
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- Inside the torture chamber
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- Inside the church
I was excited to finally see graffiti. It is sgraffito though, kinda like stencil black etchings, done on cement. Very dark, e.g. gun pointed to a head, a knife stabbed on chest, scenes of torture, etc. Found out, they were scenes from “Bloody novel.” Again, I’m clueless!
Alley full of Sgraffito
OLOMOUC – Moravian Part of Czech Republic
Third and final stop for the day and the best one yet: Olomouc. We are now in Moravia side of Czech Republic. It’s a smaller version of Prague without the hordes of tourists. Absolutely lovely, reminiscent of those small Italian towns with large piazzas and fountains all over. They say that Caesar, from Rome, found a well here and decided to build the town. The town also happens to house the remains of St. Jan Sarkander who was skinned alive by the Germans.
The center of town was once called, Hitler Square, then Stalin Square under communist rule.
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- Olomouc Fountain
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- Tram line
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- Main square
Like Prague, there are gothic and baroque cathedrals everywhere. And an equally impressive Astronomical clock with star signs on one clock. Another clock has 365 days with names for each day. So people remember to celebrate people’s birthdays — at least those important enough to be listed!
Olomouc Astronomical Clock
Olomouc Church
By 5PM, we were all down at a basement wine bar. I don’t drink. Good to chat though. Found out Cora is as crazy about dancing as I do. From there we proceeded for dinner. I had trout. Couldn’t get into the local food yet, lots of meat.
