Seoul for my Soul: Day Two – Bukhansan

A thousand spirits and ancestors – kings, empresses, soldiers and monks — kept safe in the fortress walls around the mountains.

Secret gates and fortress walls were built in the 1700s to ward off enemies. Dozens of temples that provided respite for hikers were once sanctuaries for soldiers. These stunning mountains of Bukhansan untouched by war, lush green with the summer forest, singing with the streams and rivers snaking through it, mesmerised me. The place made me feel as though heaven descended on earth and I was its welcome solitary guest. My body was exhausted but my spirit soared.

 

Breakfast at Sophia’s

It was difficult to get up early after a tiring day yesterday. Plus, the futon was just too cosy!

I was up early enough to catch the complimentary breakfast. I met Claudia, a local who speaks fluent English and her friend, a Japanese. Maria, our host, was effervescent as she served breakfast of mushroom soup, boiled egg, sliced pears and watermelon. She toasted a piece of bread for me which I had with her strawberry jam. Coffee was ok.

Claudia translated for me what Maria was saying: a lot of the guests leave early or miss out breakfast so it’s a shame for her because she does not get the chance to interact with them. She loves to entertain guests at breakfast. When I told Claudia I was going for a climb up Bukhansan, I did not get a very encouraging response from either of the two ladies. She said it will be hot because it’s summer. She asked me if I knew where I was going. Not exactly. The Bukhansan National Park has several entrances, so Claudia checked for me which would be best as I told her I was more interested in climbing the rocky parts.

Curious, I asked her if there are some similarities amongst Korean, Japanese and Chinese language and culture. She said language is definitely very, very different. Even the culture. That surprised me, my ignorance perhaps led me to assume they have a shared history and roots, therefore they have lots of similarities. Sophia was up before I left. She said Maria used to be a hairdresser. The two of them run the hanok. Maria talked to me in Korean, looking amused or perhaps fascinated. Sophia translated “She likes your body.” Another unexpected compliment that I didn’t know how to take. So I just said thank you.

Bukhansan National Park

It was past 10:30 AM by the time I made my way to Bukhansan, much later than I had hoped. I bought a bottle of water and tea along the way. I took the train from Angguk Station and alighted at Gupabal Station. It cost 1900 won one way. 500 is a refundable deposit for the card which you get back through a refund slot right next to the top-up machines.

At Gupabal Station, it wasn’t too difficult for me to find the bus that took us to Bukhansan entrance. There was already a queue of people in heavy-duty hiking attire – complete with hiking ‘sticks’, hiking apparel, hiking shoes (I think I’m the only one wearing walking sandals), hats and all. I had to buy myself a hat from a sidewalk vendor – cost me 15,000 won.

I certainly stood out like a sore thumb. Not only was I the only tourist (non-oriental looking), I also looked ill-prepared for a hike. (I did receive a lot of attention for wearing sandals, lots of disapproving looks. I felt like Legolas of Lord of the Rings through the mountains with my sandals – light and swift.) The ride took around 10-15 minutes. I could not see the mountains, until the last few minutes, I saw on the horizon the rocky outcrops I was so excited about! The bus stopped around 500 meters away from the actual entrance to the park.

I forgot to bring food. I bought a couple of peaches from the sidewalk stalls. The vendor asked me, “You Filipino?” I said yes. He smiled, “I was in Philippines, four months.” I asked if he liked it. He replied “Oh, I love Philippines and I love Filipinos.” He extended both hands, cupped and shook my hands, delighted to have met me. Of course, how could I forget? My very hometown of Baguio City in the Philippines is like Korea-town. We’ve had an influx of Koreans coming over to learn English!

I made my way and simply followed the crowd. At the entrance, I asked for information and Park Map. Had to buy it for 1000 won. The entrance was free. It was hard to figure out where I should go to, there were so many trails! They call it courses. I don’t want to miss the rocky ones, so I went back and asked.

“Where should I go to see the rocky part of the mountains?” There were so many trails, I don’t have time to make a mistake and miss out what I came here for.

“Wohyobong Peak.”

“How long does it take?”

“One and a half to two hours one way.”

“What about the highest peak. Can I go there after Wohyobong?”

“Another one and a half to two hours to the highest peak, Baegundae Peak.”

“Where do I start?”

“Turn around the corner to the left and take the bridge.”

So off I went, looking at my map, crossed the Dule Bridge which revealed a great view of the peaks I thought I would climb – two peaks, and certainly, the highest peak of the whole national park. Three to four hours going up and another three hours coming down. I thought I could manage. I have enough time. It was 11:30 by the time I started though. If I pace myself quick enough, I calculated, I would reach the peak by 3 PM, and be back by 6 PM. It’s summer, so the sun would still be up by then. I could make it!

I struggled. Soaking in sweat, my leg muscles started getting sore. My heart beat so fast and I was running out of breath.

Seo-ammun Gate

I finally reached a fortress gate, one of the eight secret gates built in 1700s. Checking the map, to my disappointment, I was not even a quarter way through yet to Wohyobong. I can’t believe it!

There were a few hikers who noticed my shoes, rather sandals. Some just pointed at it with a questioning look. Some, disapproving, some a mix of impressed and “are you dumb?” look. One lady won’t let it go, she just kept telling me off in a grandmotherly way, all in Korean that I don’t understand. Finally, the husband said, “She says your shoes… it’s dangerous and risky.”

I looked like I was going out to party with my crystal drop earrings, opal necklace, and yes, my walking sandals. I wasn’t hiking Everest!

Wohyosa

The trails were steep. At one point, I felt like crawling through the slabs of stones. I finally decided not to get too caught up trying to reach two peaks. It just felt impossible to even reach the first peak at one point. Uphill, I saw what looked like a hanuk, hugging huge boulders reaching up to the skies. I thought that must be Wohyobong. I turned left and took the flight of stairs.

There were no people. It can’t be the peak. Where were the others? I opened the sliding doors. Inside were statues of Buddha, some incense and candles. The ceilings were covered with lanterns, strips of paper with tiny calligraphy written on them. Maybe they were prayers or wishes. In front of the altar, was what seemed like a donation box. I dropped some coins and lit incense. Not sure if I was doing customarily the right thing.

Feeling at peace and at home, I hung out for a while. Meditated. Prayed. Communed with what felt like thousands of spirits and guides looking after me. I paid respects to the gods, goddesses, the spirits of kings and empresses that lived before.

I felt rejuvenated and continued walking. Nobody was around. Statues of warriors and Buddha greeted me by the cliffy trails. Further along, I saw another tiny prayer place. There was an altar inside with a smaller Buddha, and again lots of lotus lanterns covering the ceiling. It was a dead-end. I took the wrong turn. Or perhaps it was the right turn.

I looked at my map. Where was I? Wohyosa Temple. I was only halfway through, nowhere close to the first peak! It was already 12:30 but I wasn’t hungry yet so I continued, with only one bottle of water left. All my bottles of vitamin water and tea were finished. Not good.

Wohyobong Peak

Finally! Whatever I have gone through was worth it. I trekked sinews of tricky trails snaking through rocks and boulders. I loved it! It was so much fun. It was exactly the kind of climb I’ve wanted to experience. I did my plank. I had to ask people to take my photos. Koreans are very accommodating, sometimes they even volunteer to take my photo without me asking. Mission accomplished!

Buk-Mon Gate

On the way down, I passed by another of the secret gates. This North Gate was installed in 1711 during the reign of King Sukjon.

Sangoonsa Temple

This was another unexpected detour that I took. The sign said no trails, but there was. It was easy to follow. There was just no other people, that was all. It was then that it occurred to me, what if I fell off the ravine or cliffs? What if I took a misstep and sprained my ankle? Or got bitten by some bugs, tripped, had an accident? They were just passing thoughts.

The tree-covered paths, green and lush dotted with purple wildflowers shifted my attention back to being excited and fascinated. At the end of the trail, a temple greeted me, cradled by mountains in the background. It was a compound. There was a huge ancient looking bell or gong. Entering the temple, I paid my respects and took a moment’s rest.

I savoured the quiet, the peace, the solitude, the fresh mountain air. I walked about the gardens. A dragonfly rested on a leaf, as though posing for me while I was taking its close-up photo. Sangoonsa did something to the spirit. My soul was blissful as though heaven touched me on earth. I could have slept there and stayed longer, but I had to go.

I finally reached the crossroads at the bottom of the hill from Sangoonsa. To the left, was 2.5 kilometres up to Baegundae, the highest peak. Right ahead is 2.3 kilometres back to the information centre. With only one bottle water left, with my leg muscles sore, with only three hours left till the parks close and the sun goes down, I decided to skip it. I was satisfied having visited the two temples, which were pleasant surprises. I did not know there were dozens of temples all over Bukhansan.

Gaeyeon Falls

Further down the mountain, I found a bridge that crosses a stream which led to a small waterfall. I took another break. There were people taking a rest, while washing themselves, soaking their feet on the water. I did the same. The water’s freezing! The place was picturesque, gurgling stream spilling down huge boulders. Water was so clear.

Bukhansanseong Valley and River

I finally reached the very bottom of the mountain thinking I was already a few meters from the information centre. I was wrong. It was still a fair bit of walk back. Fortunately, my aching body was rewarded with probably the most picturesque walk of the entire day. I followed the trail that snaked beside the valley river, with crystal clear water flowing through smooth boulders that tumbled like an art installation. By the road were a burst of pink, orange, yellow purple wildflowers. The scenery just mesmerised me!

What was supposed to be a simple three to four-hour circuit hike, took me around 5 hours. When I completed the hike, it was already 4 PM. I managed to trek only one of 21 trails. I definitely want to come back!