Malta West: Blue Grotto and AncientTemples

I found the west of Malta unique in a rugged kinda way. The ancient temples of Haqar Qim and Mnajdra, the Blue Grotto and secluded beach of Lapsi were stunning — and surprisingly with not many tourists around, making my experience of the place all the more special. 

Hal Kirkop

Josie, my AirBnB host, was already outside waiting for me, right across the road from arrivals. It didn’t take me long to find her. It was a small airport. She was warm and easy to get along with. We drove into what looked very much like countryside Malta, and turned into a quiet village. There was a church right in the middle – that was going to be my landmark, and it did help me for the rest of my stay.

Josie’s home was full of character! It’s a 300 year old house that was beautifully remodeled with modern conveniences. There’s a courtyard right in the middle of the house, with stairs that spiral past through a 2^nd-level courtyard, all the way to a 3^rd level rooftop courtyard. My room felt and looked like a harem’s room. It had it’s own shower and toilet. There was no aircon, fortunately it was airy. The limestone build made it cooler.

Josie’s cute pug loved snuggling against my feet and licking them! Adorable house, adorable pet!

Outside, it was scorching hot! I can imagine what the peak of summer would be like… must be like Seville, I recall not being able to go out and about during the day when it was almost 50 degrees celsius. Today, it’s low 30s.

Josie settled me in with suggestions where to go: Blue Grotto, the temples and Lapsi… knew about the first two, not about the last one!

Blue Grotto and Lapsi

Josie my host was going for a swim so she dropped me off at the Blue Grotto. I walked around enjoying the stunning view of the ocean! A watch tower stood out as the only structure along the limestone cliffs. It took me a while, until I finally decided to go for the Blue Grotto boat ride instead of my plan to do it early in the morning – as I read that it would be nicer with the morning light. The guy selling the tickets confirmed it. I thought, I could always go back, it’s only 8 euros.

The 20 minute boat ride was breathtaking! I couldn’t stop taking photos. It felt too fast and too short. I would love to do it again!

I hurried to catch the bus bound for Haqar Qim temple, that only comes every hour. That, I didn’t expect. I didn’t realize how hard it was to go by public transport around here.

When I finally reached the temples, I was told they’re not accepting anymore guests as they’re closing in 10 mins. It was past 5PM. I’m so glad I’m staying in Hal Kirkop, I’ll definitely come back tomorrow!

Went back to the bus stop bound for Blue Grotto. I thought I might as well go for a swim. While waiting, a cabbie chatted me up. He said he’ll bring me to Lapsi – for free. I don’t know where that is and besides, while I can take risks with people giving me free rides, I won’t do it to places I don’t know. I said, I’m going to Blue Grotto. He insisted I take his ride – for free. “Bus takes too long!” he said.

He asked if I’m Filipina, he said Filipinas are nice and clean. Whatever! He obviously has taken a liking to me. I’m just glad he was nice enough to drop me off at the Blue Grotto, it was only 3-5 mins away from the Temples.

Finally, I decided to go for a swim. The water was cool. I just took a dip as I forgot to bring goggles. It’s inconvenient with my contact lenses on. I can’t get saltwater into my eyes. I took dip again… did on one end, then another… the water was deliciously clear! It’s not so much that I like the water per se, but it’s about appreciating the beauty of the water by diving right into it! It’s like food: why smell and see and not just bite, chew and swallow??? Why just look at the crystal clear water, admiring, and not dive right into it, be immersed in the beauty of it with the feel, taste and sound of the water enveloping my skin, my whole being!

Refreshed and ready to go, I tried to catch the next bus once more. On the way, heard Paul the cabbie call me and saw him sitting at the café waving at me. He must have waited for me! He said he’ll drop me off at Hal Kirkop. I was wary, I said, I have not enough money with me, I’ll just take the bus. He insisted. So he dropped me off at the church. He said call him and he’ll drive me around. Not sure if he meant for free… I don’t want to take advantage. I was only glad he was nice enough to give me the rides today. I was lucky!

Haqar Qim and Manajdra Temples

The temples were built around 3200-3600 BC. They were astrologically designed as most ancient religious sites. The perfect symmetry of stones, laid out to line up with the streams of sunlight during the equinoxes and solstices. It so happened, today was just a day after the summer solstice. Yesterday was the longest day, but it didn’t feel like it. The temples, especially Mnajdra were right by the ocean. It’s just awesome! So blue!

I woke up early around 7AM and started writing. I called Paul the cabbie half an hour later to ask him to pick me up. Taking the bus is just a pain. I had enough time to complete my writing, get ready, and pack all my stuff. Met Josie downstairs, I just had my vitamin fizzy drink and off I went to meet Paul. He picked me up at 9AM by the church. Dropped me off at Haqar Qim… then he said “have a nice day!” He asked for a kiss. I said no… “I pay you 10 Euros and you pick me up, go to Lapsi or Blue Grotto for a swim and then bring me back to Hal Kirkop.” Kirkop is only 5 mins away. To put into perspective, I later saw in the day a Malta trip for only 8 euros… brings you to the same places pretty much. He didn’t show up – or I was late so he probably already left.

What should have been an hour of going around the temples took me almost couple hours.

I was lucky enough, early enough, to have the temples mostly to myself. There were a couple or so other guests. Haqar Qim and Mnajdra were amazing. I did not feel the same kind of strong energy though that I did in Teotihuacan. I did feel something when I sat down, under the windswept evergreen tree, the wind blowing against my face as I closed my eyes, in the same direction as where the bent tree was pointing. I took in the whispers of the wind from the ocean, the wind blowing away from the ocean… they have a message they want us to carry to the world.

It was already 11:15 by the time I was ready to go… didn’t know the 4d show is only every quarter of the hour, I didn’t note it before I went into the temple grounds. I wish I watched the 4D show first before I went to the temples. It was informative.

I was walking on my way to the bus stop, when a van passed by, the driver slowed down and asked “where you going? Come over I give you a lift!” He asked immediately for pay, which I didn’t mind. We haggled. At first, I said blue grotto thinking it would be easier to get a bus from there, but quickly changed my mind: “10Euros you bring me to Hal Kirkop yes?” That settled it. Despite that, I still got the are-you-married-conversation. He said he like Filipinos, they’re nice and clean. Sigh… the quirks of the people and the stereotypes they have!