A Week in Mexico City,Teotihuacan, Coyoacan

I had a satisfying last week in Mexico City, exploring the vast pyramid complex of Teotihuacan and enjoying the quaintness of Coyoacan.

Monday: Guanajuato to Mexico City – Distrito Federal (DF)

I wanted to savor my stay in Guanajuato. Instead of taking the 10AM bus, I took the 3:15PM bus. Primera Plus only cost $416 whereas ETN cost $500. The latter, of course, has more space, but I couldn’t be bothered. The former was sufficient — in fact, more than adequately — comfortable.

I went back to Bagel Caffetin for breakfast. I had to have their great coffee and tuna bagel one more time. I then went back to the artisan market right next to the Basilica and bought some souvenirs and token for my hosts. When I left, unfortunately, Mike was gone for the day. I was happy though that I had at least an hour chatting with him before I left for breakfast. We talked about economics and politics in central America and the US, about  Australia and the Philippines. Ana called a cab for me and we had the chance to talk more while we waited.

I arrived at Mexico DF around 7PM. I took the train from Norte to Taxquena metro station to get to the Terminal del Sur where Hina picked me up. I received at least eight invites from Couchsurfing, but I already arranged to stay with Hina whom I met traveling in Semuc Champey.  

Tuesday: Mercado de las Flores and Zona Rosa

Mercado de las Flores – Flower Market. Following Hina’s suggestion, I decided to spend the day ato La Ciudadela and Mercado de Jamaica. It was worth spending even just 20 mins going around the massive flower market of Mercado de Jamaica. I haven’t seen anything like it! A creative array of flower arrangements lined up the stalls from cartoon characters to animals to traditional floral arrangements.Unfortunately, I forgot how to get to La Ciudadela and I couldn’t reach Hina to remind me.

Zona Rosa.  I ended up going to Zona Rosa instead as I haven’t seen the place the last time I was here in Mexico City. I took the train from Jamaica and alighted at Insurgentes, changing from the green to the pink line. Geez, the metro station was confusing!  Loved the vibe of Zona Rosa. Just went window shopping, bought souvenirs at the Mercado de Artesanias, and then gave in to my Western cravings for coffee (Starbucks) and doughnuts (Krispy Kreme).

Coyoacan commercial center. One of the things I took for granted was shopping for designer labels here in Mexico — much cheaper than Melbourne! Couldn’t resist a Zara chiffon blouse. I met with CS friend Toni after, chatting over early dinner. I had chinese plate for a change.

Wednesday: Teotihuacan

The pyramid complex of Teotihuacan was just amazing beyond words! The valley had settlers as early as 400BC and was the first planned urban settlement in the whole of Mesoamerica. I almost missed this highlight of my Mexican trip! It was only a last minute decision — I thought I’m all ‘pyramided out’ after Palenque, Chichen Itza, Tulum and Monte Alban.  

I left my place at around 8:30AM; hosts were still asleep. By the time I reached the Autobus del Norte and got my bus ($38 one-way) to Teotihuacan, it was already 10AM. Arriving there at around 11AM still gave me enough time to enjoy the whole place. Luckily, weather was cool, with the clouds shielding us from the heat of the sun. That certainly made my experience much better than in the other
pyramid ruins.

I met Adriano, from the Brazilian armed forces. Proved to be pretty cool company and fellow photowhoric! It was nice just to have someone to go around with, especially one who’s done his homework. Apparently the Pyra

Tlaloc- God of Water

mid de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon) takes energy, and the Pyramide del Sol gives energy. Therefore, Adriano said, we must climb the two in that order: the moon, before the sun.

The main god worshipped here is Tlaloc, the god of water. Water is my element and I have a strong affinity for it. There were rituals at the top of the Pyramide del Sol as well as on the grounds in front of it. I don’t know if what Adriano said was true, but I certainly felt energized after visiting the pyramids!

Had very late lunch (or early dinner) at Zona Rosa. Adriano’s treat, he said I can return the treat when we meet tomorrow at Coyoacan.

Thursday: Coyoacan, Frida Kahlo, Tequila and Mezcal!

Hina took me to a vegetarian cafe and organic shop. The wheat pancake and omelette were just divine — glad they had soy milk, but the coffee wasn’t that great. I was spoilt in Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende! My treat for Hina, she’s been an easygoing host; shame John, her partner couldn’t join us.

Frida Kahlo Museum. Hina drove me around Coyoacan and dropped me off here where I was meant to meet Adriano. He didn’t show up, so I just went ahead and enjoyed the museum on my own. Entrace was $70. Frida Kahlo, and her love affair with Diego Rivera, was pretty intense. I’m not really very fond of museums but I’m glad I went to this one. I guess when one lives life with such committed depth, one can’t help but create ripples in a generation — or beyond. It takes so much courage to live life the way Frida did.

Coyoacan Centro. I spent the rest of the day walking around Coyoacan, most of which was at the artists’ market. I just love markets, especially where there are unique and locally made artsand crafts. I bought a few more souvenirs before I headed off.  Taking Hina’s suggestion, I had my eyebrows shaped at the nearby salon for $120. I prefer Indian threading — I think it’s still the best, even if it’s twice the price or more in Singapore and Australia. 

Tequila and Mezcal for my Last night! I headed for the town this evening after a rest in my room. I finally had night shots of Bellas Artes, despite the rain; best view from Sears building. I was meant to meet a group of Couchsurfers; one of them organised a meet-up for salsa dancing at Mambo Cafe. Bad news: all bailed out on me last minute because of traffic chaos from some protest; roads were blocked. Good news: one of them, Rolando, had me picked up by his driver (and later dropped me back to my place). He happens to be a UN diplomat and expat. He was kind enough to take me around even if it was getting really late with the impossible Mexican traffic! We went back to Coyoacan, listened to some folkloric Mexican band, had drinks where I finished off with Tequila and Mezcal. I don’t drink, but hey, my last night and had to make an exception!  A great company once more, just at the right time! Serendipitous yet again!

Perfect ending to a magical, mystical and magnificent 10 weeks of slow travel in Mesoammerica!