Seoul for my Soul: Day Three – Palace Quarter

My last day, I unintentionally managed to fit in so much. Although I did not come with a long-tick-in-the-box- checklist kind of itinerary, I ended up covering the most recommended itineraries in retrospect.

My Palace Quarter exploration covered Gwanghwamun with its intimidating wide avenue dwarfed by modern structure, to the centuries-old Geyeongbokgung Palace, through to the quaint alleyways of Bukchon Hanok Village and Samcheong-gung, and finally, back at the massive markets of In-sadong for souvenirs. I was lucky enough to be with a new local friend, Minji, who made sure I saw the best alley views, experienced hadhanjeongsik (traditional Korean menu) for lunch and the best tea ever in a traditional wooden teahouse.

Gwanghamun

Gwanghamun square was an imposing 555-meter long, 34-meter-wide square. It was well-lit at night with the statues of the Koreans’ most respected historical figures, Admiral Yi Sun-Shin and King Sejong. It’s Korea National Day yesterday, so there were late-night celebrations.

After my walk at Bukhansan yesterday, I got back to my room at 5 pm, fell into a deep nap. By the time I was all dressed and showered to go out, it was already 9PM. All the last shows – musicals, dance, theatre – were at 8PM. So I just went where my feet took me. I followed lights and sounds coming from a concert, and ended up at Gwanghamun Citizen’s Square. I managed to catch a KPop girl band and a heavy rock band which seemed very popular.

Everybody was so behaved, seated in their respective chairs until the latter came on, and everybody was on their feet, fists pumping in the air! In the background, was a film projection of moments in the history of South Korea. I don’t understand a single word, but the vibe of pride was palpable, I almost felt like a local myself, so proud to be Korean! After hours of hiking in the mountain, and then more walking around the area, my feet were screaming for rest. I continued nonetheless. Around the area was the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History. I passed by the Sejong Center for Performing Arts gravitating towards the brilliant hologram futuristic projection of Korean history.

Today, I started earlier but it was still unrealistically ambitious to think I would be out and about by 8AM.

By the time I made it to breakfast, it was already 8:45 AM. I was in a rush, but could not rush enough as I started a conversation with a French couple who were also staying around the same time I was. We started talking about travel, and then the economy, their opinions about the Euro zone, the unification, the differences in social policies that impact on mobility and migration. It was fascinating. I was looking at the clock behind them extending one more minute after another.

Eventually, and almost rudely, I hated to but had to cut the conversation short. It was times like those that I wished I had more time. Sometimes it’s not so much just the places that make the experience of travel, but more importantly the people you connect with and the stories they share.

National Folk Museum of Art Korea

It was only around 300 meters from Sophia guesthouse and the alternative entrance to the Palace. I only passed by with less than two hours to explore since it was already 9:45 and I was to meet Minji at 11:30 am. Came back after exploring the Gyeongbokgung palace and bought postcards at the gift shop. With only enough time to check out one gallery, I chose to look into the first one I saw: History of the Korean people. That they start the timelines from 70,000 BC says a lot.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

The entrance was free, because of the National Day weekend. I rushed to Gwanghamun Gate, reaching it just before 10AM. Gwangha means “the country that came about as a result of the king’s great virtues”. Although another guide offered a different meaning “a gate from which all human policies reach out in all directions”.

My timing was perfect for the changing of the guards around the gate.

A guy in traditional (kung-fu like) garb gonged this huge multi-coloured drum. Out came the guards in traditional Korean costume, in blue, red, green colours carrying flags with various insignias. The staff were very helpful, one of them even took my photos with the guards, warding off photo-bombers! I only had enough time to peek into the main palace where the King’s throne is.

The palace was constructed in 1395, was the residence for 500 years of the Joseon Dynasty. Gyeongbokgung literally means “wish for your blessing and prosperity” a word that resonates deep with me.

Bukchon Hanok Village

I got back in time to check-out from Sophia Guesthouse, had my luggage sorted and stored before Minji showed up. We have only two hours together, as she had to go to a swing dance class. “If you were staying longer, I could have brought you with me.” I wish I was here longer! We made our way towards the Jeongduk Public Library.

“This is where a lot of people date. I don’t know why, but it’s a popular dating place.” Minji told me. She went on to say, that she’s impressed I found a place like Sophia Guesthouse, the location is perfect and it’s a charming hanok. I thought so too.

“This area is very romantic. Very popular for couples. You notice?” I didn’t really. But I seem to have a penchant for ending up in romantic places in the different countries I travel to.

“Even Naksan Park is also popular for dating.” So, I heard. We finally reached Bukchon Hanok Village which retains the old city appearance of Korea, hence it’s popularity as film location for TV series and movies. It has Seoul’s largest collection of hanok homes, around 900 of them. People still reside in them. Minji took me to where the best view is, at Bukchon-ro 11 gil which was lined with giwajips (tiled-roof houses).

At the top of the alley is the contrast between past and present, over the horizon, past the hanoks is the downtown Seoul city skyline with the Namsan Mountain in the background.

Along the alleyways up the hill, Minji showed me the neighboring Samcheong-dong, which shares a similar characteristic of charming, little alleyways lined with craft shops, galleries, boutiques, cafes and tearooms.

In-sadong

“Everything actually connects, from one place to the next” Minji told me. Before we knew it, we were back to Sophia’s neighbourhood, having completed a circuit and were well on our way to Insadong.

“Are you hungry? We can have lunch now?”

“Yes, of course!”

“There’s a very popular place I bring you to.”

We walked through busier alleyways, filled with Korean signages.

We finally reached a street full of traditional Korean restaurants.

“Have you tried traditional tea room” Minji asked as we made our way out.

“No, and I’ll be happy to treat you for tea if you have time!”

“I still have time.”

She brought me to a traditional teahouse indeed, with a courtyard from the entrance, and elevated wooden floors that you squat on as tea is served on very low lying tables. I ordered Green Plum Tea, and it was heavenly, probably the most delectable tea I’ve ever had my whole life! It was sweet but not sugary sweet. It’s worth 7,000 won, which would typically already buy you a decent lunch.

We continued chatting while enjoying our tea. Time flew so fast and Minji had to leave to catch the train and be in her dance class on time. It’s amazing someone to meet for the first time be so hospitable and feel like a good old friend.

“When you get married make sure you let me know so I come visit!” were her last parting words! The Koreans, I realised, are very much into romance, in their own way. (Even when buying doll souvenirs, I could not buy independent ones, you’d have to buy them in pairs!)

I could not thank Minji enough. It is locals that complete my travel experience. Without connecting with locals, my travel would have felt like mere “window-shopping”.

Leaving Seoul

I got back to Sophia Guesthouse by 4PM with enough time to catch the 4:48 bus back to the airport. They pass by 12^th and 48^th minute on the hour.

Air Asia this time was a hassle. It was already two hours delayed and still caught in air traffic for another half hour. At least I had time to try one more thing I haven’t: coffee (outside the guesthouse). I had tuna sandwich served with fruity-nutty loaf and a cup of Americano. It was satisfying. As I say, I judge a city by its coffee and street art. Seoul, you certainly passed, and more…

It had been a truly wonderful three days, worth the spontaneous decision to come over with much planning. Not often do I come across a country, a city, a town that I never intended to visit and yet made me fall in love with it. I treasure these serendipitous travel moments. Of the 35 countries I travelled to so far, this is one of my top five, and one that I certainly would want to come back to.