Uzbekistan – Bukhara

Getting to Bukhara

From Hotel Legend, we took a cab to the station, booked for us by Aziz. It cost us only 25000 Som with the cabbie using a meter. We had business class for our train to Bukhara from Samarkand. It was a convenient two-hour ride.

General Impressions

Bukhara felt more commercial than Samarkand. Samarkand’s main attractions were products of aggressive restoration but it was less touristy and more quiet. I was surprised as I expected that of Bukhara, instead it was more bustling than Samarkand. All the tourist sights went hand-in-hand with shops. The upside was that it made Bukhara a better place for shopping Uzbek locally made products and souvenirs – undeniably the place is full of local crafts and everywhere you went, you won’t miss a shop. Bukhara existed for 2500 to 3000 years

Eating Out

Another week in Uzbekistan and I’d probably noticeably would have lost weight. There weren’t many options for me. First, tried a late lunch with Lyabi Hauz, right in the middle of town, by the water and a view of the “phoenix’ madrassa, iconic of Bukhara. The service was horrible, the food left much to be desired. In the evening, we tried the recommended Saroy, which had a terrace with a good view. On the second night, we dined at Chor terrace, which gave an impressive view of the Kalyan tower and the poi kalian ensemble. Ended out last night with a nice cuppa tea and a cherry pie at a café…

Hotel Fatima

It was right smack in the beginning of the Old Town – just across the street from Lyabi Hauz water fountain and the “Phoenix” madrassa. It was modern compared to Hotel Legend, and was situated alongside a strip of hotels. Location was great, within easy walking distance to places of interest. Service was nothing to complain about, but it certainly was not as personal as hotel Legend. Ambience was not as authentic as rustic as Hotel Legend, but it’s nonetheless traditionally furnished and decorated. The breakfast was what I enjoyed the most… there was a diverse spread of food, both savory and sweets. Can’t complain.

Inside Old Town

Old Bukhara’s pretty compact. Everything was within walking distance… from the trading domes which are still active shops, to the mosques and madrassas. Towering over the whole town is the Kalyan minaret, lit at night glittering like gold.

Built in 1127, it stood the test of time by being earthquake-proof and also beautiful enough for Genghis Khan to leave it alone while he destroyed the rest of the city. At the edge of the Old Town is the Ancient Ark Fortress built in the 5^th century AD. Beyond the maintained museums, on the other side of the wall looked like a decimated city all buried in soil and dust. It wasn’t open to tourists, but one of the guys manning the place led us to an entrance for $5. It was worth it. It was the only place where you get a view of the whole of the Old Town.

We took bus 8, and the driver – who refused to take any payment — alighted us on the street closest to Chor Minor. It was a maze of alleyways getting to this photogenic mosque with four minarets. The courtyard was graced with roses, grapevines, cherries, mulberry trees and a fountain where kids were playing, and the keeper scolding them. We soaked in the atmosphere and chilled for half hour.

Outside Old Town

The following day we intended to visit the Central Bazaar and decided to cab it. The heat was scorching. The cabbie suggested alternatives outside the old town, for $20 we ended up being driven around the whole afternoon to three places.

First, we visited the Bakhauddin Nakshbandi Mausoleum. After having seen Samarkand, nothing looks as visually special anymore, however, the place has a certain kind of peacefulness unique to it that made it worth visiting or even hanging out for a while. We were the only tourists – or foreign looking ones at least, in the place.

Second, we went to Emir Sitoria Mohi Khosa residence. It seemed a bit forlorn, paintings peeling, buildings looking tired and ready to retire from existence. The inside of the palace was a contrast, looking vibrant, too vibrant perhaps, kaleidoscopic with its mishmash of designs and lighting. The place was originally established during the Samanid Dynasty.

Finally, the third place we visited was the Chor-Bakr necropolis also known as “town of deads”, where Abu Bakr Said funeral was, a direct descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. Once again, for a “side hustle” payment of $5, we were granted access to the top of the dome. It was the only opportunity we had to get that close to a dome. It was an experience not to miss! Before we headed out, our cabbie driver got us to feed the birds. This seemed to be a bird’s paradise. It completed our sightseeing for the day!

Places of Interest:

• Lyagi Hauz Ensemble
• Trading Domes
• Poi Kalyan ensemble
• Kalyan Minaret
• Ancient Ark Fortress
• Emir’s Residence
• Chor Bakr Ensemble